Carbs...

I looked inside the oil pump to count the amount of washer, just in case I would like to change the oil pressure later.

I have also took dimensions to make a tool if I need too. Always wondered why the drain hole is so big? Well, it's to get the tool through in order to modify the oil pressure.

Used blue loctite on the nut and, this time, I folded the tab correctly ;o)

Actually, the loctite is important; some people do not use the tab washer.

Ready to close it up.

I've painted a dot on the PMH (TDC) and the 5 degree mark, and a line on the 30 degree mark.



20 years in storage, the carbs are very dirty with varnish and the pumps are leaking inside when the engine is running.

New and improved grose jets (Manufactured by John Titus and designed by
Ansel B. Grose); The ball turns randomly and never develops a groove. In addition, this can close the fuel intake if the fuel pump delivers higher pressure (In case of after market fuel pumps).

John Titus designed the SM gear reduction starter and coming soon, the DS gear reduction starter for ALL 5 main bearing engines, including 66-69 with large tooth flywheel.

Installation instructions:
"To ensure gasket remains centered on valve, place gasket on valve and tighten valve finger tight with valve threads facing upward (use grease to hold gasket in place). Invert cover and tighten valve to specifications. Adjust float as usual."

I have replaced the screw by a stud to facilitate the intake manifold removal and installation.

Now it is time to start the engine again. I have hooked up the oiler and a oil pressure gage (See earliest posts).

The oil showed up at the oil filter, then at the cam shaft. It's time to install the cover, shut off the oiler and start the engine.

Now running and the oil pressure is good...

Ignition and carbs are not tuned up yet. The engine should sound better soon...

Crank plugs problem.

Another set back!

I have noticed my oil pressure falling. Turned out that one of the plugs on the crank shaft popped out. Looks like it happened to everybody, so I am not happy but I don't feel that bad. I have talked to a machinist who worked on Maserati and Ferrari engines; he was well aware of it and now it taps and put screw in plugs.

So after removing the oil pans and finding the plug in it, the engine has to come out and be opened up again; a full week of work on my own time... :'o(

Dave Burnham was out of plugs as well as my local machinists. I found some plugs at my local part store. They are deeper than the flat, original plugs. The good news is that they are readily available in the US.

This is the 10mm mark:


I used a 3/8th socket to hold the plugs and grind them to a diameter of 10.1 mm.



Finished. Took some time but I had no choice (But they were only $.60 each).

Next to an original plug. Being deeper, there is more metal in contact. I used a small magnet to be sure that no metal was inside the journals. I have checked all bearings and no damage has been done, by the way.

I used red Loctite and a small socket to drive them home, then I pushed the metal to be sure.

Fuel pump.

The fuel pump gave me trouble AGAIN!

I replaced it with a low pressure after market pump from Carquest (Ref # E8016FSC)

Works like a charm.

Starting engine and oil pressure

Yesterday, I have started the engine...

Before, I hooked up the engine oiler to raise the pressure inside the engine and fill the hoses going to the cooler.

I have inserted a pressure gauge between the oiler and the engine...

I used a modified DS pressure sensor unit to attach the hose to the engine.

When the engine started, I had 8 bars of pressure (Using a straight 30 oil)

At normal operating temperature, I've read 1.5 bars @ 1000 rpm, which is right to specs.

For the first start, I left the engine running for 20mn up to normal operating temperature. Today, I will tun up the ignition and synchronise the carbs...

Water hose, new exhaust installed and battery tray.

I found a hole on the hose going from the heater core to the water pump. This reference is a Carquest number.

The old exhaust is out.

The new one is in.

All stainless steel.

A picture is better than 1000 words:

New polymer battery tray after some modifications. I clean as much rust as possible and used a rust encapsulator. I put grease under the tray to protect further the metal.

Pretty solid now. Less than $5 and a limited amount of work.

Engine oiler

I finally received my engine oiler. This is made by Silver Seal. I was very disappointed by this company. First I have received a defective oiler. I have sent it back and did not ask for a shipping reimbursement as long they send a good one to me overnight. The bottom line, I lost two weeks because of their poor quality control and customer service.

Otherwise this is a very handy tool. You put 4 quarts of oil and pressurise to 120 psi...

I used an old DS oil pressure sending unit on which I have silver brazed an adaptor. I made a loop with the oil cooler hose. After opening the valve, the oil came to the oil filter...

After installing the oil filter I saw the oil coming out from the cam shafts. So, everything seem to be good.

I replaced the oiler with a gage and used the starter to get the oil pressure up to see if my oil pump is working properly. I found 35 psi with a cold straight W30. The RTA (French shop manual) calls for 1.5 Bars (21.75 psi) @ 1000 rpm and 5.5 Bars (79.77 psi) @ 6000 rpm (Oil temperature being at 212 degrees F).

I have tried to get the compressions but my battery gave up. I found 165 psi on cylinder 6; I'll check the other cylinders later.

The engine is ready to get back home.

Now, time to reconnect everything.

Throttle cable and drive shaft

This is the throttle cable...

A replacement cable would run between $150 and $300, so I bought a barely used Harley Davidson speedometer cable for $20. The housing is almost identical than the original Citroen cable. The cable itself is 3mm instead of the original 2mm.

After removing the old piece, grinding and drilling, the new housing fits great.



I drilled a 5mm screw on the top for about 3mm to 4mm and silver brazed the new cable in it.

Same on the other side. I had to drill the original piece to accept the new 3mm cable.

Since this cable is supposed to turn instead of pulling, I was concerned that it might not be solid enough. I have applied a lot of force (Almost my weight) to try to break it; it is very strong.

Voila!

I have also installed new outer boots.