Crank plugs problem.

Another set back!

I have noticed my oil pressure falling. Turned out that one of the plugs on the crank shaft popped out. Looks like it happened to everybody, so I am not happy but I don't feel that bad. I have talked to a machinist who worked on Maserati and Ferrari engines; he was well aware of it and now it taps and put screw in plugs.

So after removing the oil pans and finding the plug in it, the engine has to come out and be opened up again; a full week of work on my own time... :'o(

Dave Burnham was out of plugs as well as my local machinists. I found some plugs at my local part store. They are deeper than the flat, original plugs. The good news is that they are readily available in the US.

This is the 10mm mark:


I used a 3/8th socket to hold the plugs and grind them to a diameter of 10.1 mm.



Finished. Took some time but I had no choice (But they were only $.60 each).

Next to an original plug. Being deeper, there is more metal in contact. I used a small magnet to be sure that no metal was inside the journals. I have checked all bearings and no damage has been done, by the way.

I used red Loctite and a small socket to drive them home, then I pushed the metal to be sure.

Fuel pump.

The fuel pump gave me trouble AGAIN!

I replaced it with a low pressure after market pump from Carquest (Ref # E8016FSC)

Works like a charm.

Starting engine and oil pressure

Yesterday, I have started the engine...

Before, I hooked up the engine oiler to raise the pressure inside the engine and fill the hoses going to the cooler.

I have inserted a pressure gauge between the oiler and the engine...

I used a modified DS pressure sensor unit to attach the hose to the engine.

When the engine started, I had 8 bars of pressure (Using a straight 30 oil)

At normal operating temperature, I've read 1.5 bars @ 1000 rpm, which is right to specs.

For the first start, I left the engine running for 20mn up to normal operating temperature. Today, I will tun up the ignition and synchronise the carbs...

Water hose, new exhaust installed and battery tray.

I found a hole on the hose going from the heater core to the water pump. This reference is a Carquest number.

The old exhaust is out.

The new one is in.

All stainless steel.

A picture is better than 1000 words:

New polymer battery tray after some modifications. I clean as much rust as possible and used a rust encapsulator. I put grease under the tray to protect further the metal.

Pretty solid now. Less than $5 and a limited amount of work.

Engine oiler

I finally received my engine oiler. This is made by Silver Seal. I was very disappointed by this company. First I have received a defective oiler. I have sent it back and did not ask for a shipping reimbursement as long they send a good one to me overnight. The bottom line, I lost two weeks because of their poor quality control and customer service.

Otherwise this is a very handy tool. You put 4 quarts of oil and pressurise to 120 psi...

I used an old DS oil pressure sending unit on which I have silver brazed an adaptor. I made a loop with the oil cooler hose. After opening the valve, the oil came to the oil filter...

After installing the oil filter I saw the oil coming out from the cam shafts. So, everything seem to be good.

I replaced the oiler with a gage and used the starter to get the oil pressure up to see if my oil pump is working properly. I found 35 psi with a cold straight W30. The RTA (French shop manual) calls for 1.5 Bars (21.75 psi) @ 1000 rpm and 5.5 Bars (79.77 psi) @ 6000 rpm (Oil temperature being at 212 degrees F).

I have tried to get the compressions but my battery gave up. I found 165 psi on cylinder 6; I'll check the other cylinders later.

The engine is ready to get back home.

Now, time to reconnect everything.

Throttle cable and drive shaft

This is the throttle cable...

A replacement cable would run between $150 and $300, so I bought a barely used Harley Davidson speedometer cable for $20. The housing is almost identical than the original Citroen cable. The cable itself is 3mm instead of the original 2mm.

After removing the old piece, grinding and drilling, the new housing fits great.



I drilled a 5mm screw on the top for about 3mm to 4mm and silver brazed the new cable in it.

Same on the other side. I had to drill the original piece to accept the new 3mm cable.

Since this cable is supposed to turn instead of pulling, I was concerned that it might not be solid enough. I have applied a lot of force (Almost my weight) to try to break it; it is very strong.

Voila!

I have also installed new outer boots.

Water manifolds, oil hoses.

Keeping myself busy while waiting fro the engine oiler...

The water manifold is on...

... as well as the dipstick.


One arm on a parking brake caliper was seized.

I have receive the new oil hoses.

I have sent back the fittings of the old hoses.