3L Maserati SM rebuild

5th gear tune up...

2009-12-02T07:36:00.003-05:00

Yesterday, I tuned the 5th gear. The pin shown on the picture prevents the selector (In the gear box) to go too far and to catch the reverse fork. To get the reverse fork, the lifting of the selector above the pin permits to grab the reverse fork.

Reinstalling the cover was not a walk in the park.

A magnetic screw driver is needed to reinstall the cover. I used petroleum jelly to stick the screw at the end of the screw driver.

Ford regulator...

2009-11-19T08:31:00.003-05:00

I have replaced the voltage regulator with a new electronic Ford regulator.

For a show car it might be worth to spend the $200 for an original looking one. This one was less than $11.

Rear bearing, fuel pump.

2009-11-18T07:10:00.004-05:00

The rear bearing are humming. Someone try to open the dust cover and made a hole. The grease probably escaped and the moisture got in.

Dry as a bone.

I used a needle to inject some grease; hopefully this will help. I hope I don't have to change the bearings.

I got stuck again on the road. The fuel filter was clogged. I removed the filter near the pump and put it in the trunk.

I used pvc pipes to avoid the hoses to be crushed.

The owner can monitor the filter and eventually change it without any tools.

This is a temporary setup until the tank gets cleared up. Then, the filter can go back near the pump.

New starter

2009-11-10T15:17:00.003-05:00

Here is the new starter:

Much smaller and liter than the original one (Almost 10 Kg less).

Fuel pick up and pressure

2009-11-02T09:23:00.003-05:00

While testing the car, I got stuck. Turned out that the fuel pickup got clogged. The screen was already removed.

I have removed the end piece and cut the metal pipe like the end of a epidermic needle and made 2 holes on the other side to avoid suction in case of piece of dirt getting close to it.

Now, I am getting 4.5 psi at the carbs.

2009-11-01T18:51:00.002-05:00

Synchronization of the carburators...

2009-11-01T17:53:00.002-05:00

Electrical, resetting tach for the Buick distributor.

2009-10-29T08:01:00.004-04:00

The fans did not go on. Some rust prevented the relay to operate.

Going through the electrical system and getting the car roadworthy. The high beam just needed some soldering.

For some reason I could not get the ground at the upper right screw, but the ground was OK on the other one. I just had to make a little connection.

Here is the reason why the right side parking light was not working. The assembly is pretty much in new condition. It would be tough to find and costly to replace. Also, the metal doesn't take the solder. I just put a steel wire through to secure it.

A nice way to clean a spark plug...

... using a spot blaster.

Since the engine is working on one coil instead of two, the tachometer is getting 6 pulses instead of 3. That can be corrected by turning the potentiometer clockwise using the access hole under the label.

Buick distributor.

2009-10-22T07:16:00.006-04:00

Well, I won't be using the condensers because I have purchased a Buick distributor modified and sold by John Titus. Finally, a good, maintenance free and reliable ignition for the SM!
John's directions are very detailed and easy to understand. The installation of the distributor was a breeze and I got it right the first time. Now the engine runs like a charm.

The Buick distributor on the left. I just had to remove the pin and the gear from the original distributor and installed it on the Buick one. I had to add a shim (washer) to be within the shaft play specs that John specifies.

TDC1 at compression, align the index of the rotor to the white paint mark on the border of the distributor; slightly to the right side of the car.

Aligning the reluctor according to a schematic provided by John.

I used the leftover tab from the SEV condensers I bought to connect to the coil. I will use the other one to add a condenser on the + side for noise reduction.

Done! The engine runs great now!

John Titus provides a lot of "SM solutions". If you have an SM and don't want to spend a lot of money fixing it, go to John's web site:
http://www.citroen-sm.org/wiki/index.php/Marketplace:John_Titus

Point condensers...

2009-10-08T07:32:00.003-04:00

I bought some condensers from Dave Burnham (Marchal for Renault R5, 8, 10, 12, 16 and 18; ref S9 430 60803).

I've disordered the top tabs on the original condensers, cut most of the threaded pole on the new one and soldered the tabs on the top.

Buick distributor, master cylinder...

2009-10-07T08:18:00.006-04:00

Yesterday, I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder.

I used an extractor to remove the pin; worked like a charm.

I have honed the cylinder with an 18mm 320 grid honer.

Nice cross-hatch pattern.

The new cups came from Jerry Hathaway (SM World).

In place...

Works great. I tuned the pedal and placed the fender back on :o)

Carbs...

2009-09-29T07:56:00.007-04:00

I looked inside the oil pump to count the amount of washer, just in case I would like to change the oil pressure later.

I have also took dimensions to make a tool if I need too. Always wondered why the drain hole is so big? Well, it's to get the tool through in order to modify the oil pressure.

Used blue loctite on the nut and, this time, I folded the tab correctly ;o)

Actually, the loctite is important; some people do not use the tab washer.

Ready to close it up.

I've painted a dot on the PMH (TDC) and the 5 degree mark, and a line on the 30 degree mark.

20 years in storage, the carbs are very dirty with varnish and the pumps are leaking inside when the engine is running.

New and improved grose jets (Manufactured by John Titus and designed by
Ansel B. Grose); The ball turns randomly and never develops a groove. In addition, this can close the fuel intake if the fuel pump delivers higher pressure (In case of after market fuel pumps).

John Titus designed the SM gear reduction starter and coming soon, the DS gear reduction starter for ALL 5 main bearing engines, including 66-69 with large tooth flywheel.

Installation instructions:
"To ensure gasket remains centered on valve, place gasket on valve and tighten valve finger tight with valve threads facing upward (use grease to hold gasket in place). Invert cover and tighten valve to specifications. Adjust float as usual."

I have replaced the screw by a stud to facilitate the intake manifold removal and installation.

Now it is time to start the engine again. I have hooked up the oiler and a oil pressure gage (See earliest posts).

The oil showed up at the oil filter, then at the cam shaft. It's time to install the cover, shut off the oiler and start the engine.

Now running and the oil pressure is good...

Ignition and carbs are not tuned up yet. The engine should sound better soon...

Crank plugs problem.

2009-09-18T06:43:00.005-04:00

Another set back!

I have noticed my oil pressure falling. Turned out that one of the plugs on the crank shaft popped out. Looks like it happened to everybody, so I am not happy but I don't feel that bad. I have talked to a machinist who worked on Maserati and Ferrari engines; he was well aware of it and now it taps and put screw in plugs.

So after removing the oil pans and finding the plug in it, the engine has to come out and be opened up again; a full week of work on my own time... :'o(

Dave Burnham was out of plugs as well as my local machinists. I found some plugs at my local part store. They are deeper than the flat, original plugs. The good news is that they are readily available in the US.

This is the 10mm mark:

I used a 3/8th socket to hold the plugs and grind them to a diameter of 10.1 mm.

Finished. Took some time but I had no choice (But they were only $.60 each).

Next to an original plug. Being deeper, there is more metal in contact. I used a small magnet to be sure that no metal was inside the journals. I have checked all bearings and no damage has been done, by the way.

I used red Loctite and a small socket to drive them home, then I pushed the metal to be sure.

Fuel pump.

2009-09-11T07:59:00.003-04:00

The fuel pump gave me trouble AGAIN!

I replaced it with a low pressure after market pump from Carquest (Ref # E8016FSC)

Works like a charm.

Starting engine and oil pressure

2009-09-09T07:55:00.004-04:00

Yesterday, I have started the engine...

Before, I hooked up the engine oiler to raise the pressure inside the engine and fill the hoses going to the cooler.

I have inserted a pressure gauge between the oiler and the engine...

I used a modified DS pressure sensor unit to attach the hose to the engine.

When the engine started, I had 8 bars of pressure (Using a straight 30 oil)

At normal operating temperature, I've read 1.5 bars @ 1000 rpm, which is right to specs.

For the first start, I left the engine running for 20mn up to normal operating temperature. Today, I will tun up the ignition and synchronise the carbs...

Water hose, new exhaust installed and battery tray.

2009-08-26T08:47:00.003-04:00

I found a hole on the hose going from the heater core to the water pump. This reference is a Carquest number.

The old exhaust is out.

The new one is in.

All stainless steel.

A picture is better than 1000 words:

New polymer battery tray after some modifications. I clean as much rust as possible and used a rust encapsulator. I put grease under the tray to protect further the metal.

Pretty solid now. Less than $5 and a limited amount of work.

Engine oiler

2009-08-24T07:24:00.004-04:00

I finally received my engine oiler. This is made by Silver Seal. I was very disappointed by this company. First I have received a defective oiler. I have sent it back and did not ask for a shipping reimbursement as long they send a good one to me overnight. The bottom line, I lost two weeks because of their poor quality control and customer service.

Otherwise this is a very handy tool. You put 4 quarts of oil and pressurise to 120 psi...

I used an old DS oil pressure sending unit on which I have silver brazed an adaptor. I made a loop with the oil cooler hose. After opening the valve, the oil came to the oil filter...

After installing the oil filter I saw the oil coming out from the cam shafts. So, everything seem to be good.

I replaced the oiler with a gage and used the starter to get the oil pressure up to see if my oil pump is working properly. I found 35 psi with a cold straight W30. The RTA (French shop manual) calls for 1.5 Bars (21.75 psi) @ 1000 rpm and 5.5 Bars (79.77 psi) @ 6000 rpm (Oil temperature being at 212 degrees F).

I have tried to get the compressions but my battery gave up. I found 165 psi on cylinder 6; I'll check the other cylinders later.

The engine is ready to get back home.

Now, time to reconnect everything.

Throttle cable and drive shaft

2009-08-10T17:19:00.004-04:00

This is the throttle cable...

A replacement cable would run between $150 and $300, so I bought a barely used Harley Davidson speedometer cable for $20. The housing is almost identical than the original Citroen cable. The cable itself is 3mm instead of the original 2mm.

After removing the old piece, grinding and drilling, the new housing fits great.

I drilled a 5mm screw on the top for about 3mm to 4mm and silver brazed the new cable in it.

Same on the other side. I had to drill the original piece to accept the new 3mm cable.

Since this cable is supposed to turn instead of pulling, I was concerned that it might not be solid enough. I have applied a lot of force (Almost my weight) to try to break it; it is very strong.

Voila!

I have also installed new outer boots.

Water manifolds, oil hoses.

2009-08-09T09:58:00.003-04:00

Keeping myself busy while waiting fro the engine oiler...

The water manifold is on...

... as well as the dipstick.

One arm on a parking brake caliper was seized.

I have receive the new oil hoses.

I have sent back the fittings of the old hoses.

Thermostat

2009-08-07T08:49:00.005-04:00

Set back! The device that I bought for injecting oil under pressure in the engine was malfunctioning. A sticker said "Inspected by Jim"; I guess Jim had too many beer that day :o/

So, I wanted to test the engine with the starter, check the oil pressure and compression, but now I have to wait for a new engine oiler. I want to test the engine before installing it in the car.

But, I received the oil cooler hoses; this is a good thing.

In the mean time, I have install the exhaust manifold on the A head and also received from Dave Burnham the thermostat, which was altogether missing before.

Connecting gear box

2009-08-03T08:25:00.004-04:00

The gearbox is connected and torqued.

I bought myself some new tools; this one is very handy to access some nuts and screws. It is not strong enough to untigh or thigh a nut, but when working on Citroen, it is a must.

I have made a new hydraulic line going to Diravi system at the gearbox.

Flywheel, clutch and motor mounts.

2009-07-31T07:55:00.004-04:00

Installed a new main seal.

freshly cut flywheel

Home made tool to block flywheel.

Here, I wire brushed the numbers, sprayed with flat black and wiped once. This should be readable with the strobe light.

New pilot ball bearing from local store.

A used DS 21 shaft will do the centering.

Torquing the pressure plate.

Checking the motor mounts with a bore tool.

Left manifold installed.

Now I have to finish connecting the gear box...

Timing B head (Intake)

2009-07-30T09:09:00.003-04:00

I had to solder an extension to do the B head.

Verifying the timing. When done properly, the long marks on the cam shafts align with the caps on the A head and the short marks align on the B head.

Gapped the points before installing the distributor.

Aligned the distributor on the TDC of cylinder one (Compression stroke).

Changed the dipstick o ring with a 3X10 mm.

I made a little tool to check for engine torque. I found 25 f/lbs to 50 f/lbs depending on the number of opening valves. This is without oil pressure; I think this engine is pretty free.

Timing B head (Exhaust)

2009-07-29T07:15:00.012-04:00

I have drilled the head to accept the new limiter.

The book doesn't call it, but I've used copper washers to avoid any eventual leak and some Loctite on the threads.

New limiter in the block.

Some grease on the O rings to keep them in place.

Cleaned up the tensioner.

I first followed the book as far as installing the chain, tensioner and cam shafts, but when I worked on the B head, it was easier for me to install the chain first, the tensioner and then the cam shafts.
Below, tensioning the tensioner at 14 ft/lbs

I have marked the rotation of the chain. This will be useful later in order to set the cam shafts.

Made an extension for my dial indicator to set the TDC.

To increase precision, i have marked the casing when the needle of the dial indicator stopped moving and then when it starts moving again. The true TDC as far as the crankshaft is concerned is in between the 2 marks. The difference is very small dough.

Setting the intake cam shaft by turning the cam shaft in the same direction of the chain. On the 2.7 liter, the valve is set at 1mm down and on the 3L it is 2.20mm. I wish the book said that earlier instead of in the check timing section. I had to re-do it. When the timing is set correctly, a mark on the shaft caps are aligned with the long mark on the cam shafts.

I could not loosen the rings on the cam shafts. After a call to Dave Burnham (Thanks again, Dave) I have grinded a chisel and by whacking the ring in the wise, it finally loosened up. Here is the wrench I made form two 2 inch pin wrenches. The other one is a grinded 26mm open spanner. To hold the cam shafts in position, I used pieces of leather between the caps and the cam shaft.

Setting the exhaust cam shafts, which have to be done in the opposite direction than the chain. The value is 1.3mm in both 2.7 and 3 liter engines.

The valves in balance. The light is in the exhaust opening. The exhaust valve is closing while the intake is starting to open.

Working on the B head now.

Of course, the chain is turning in the same direction than the A head, but it seems that it is the opposite, since it is pulling the exhaust cam shaft first. I marked the direction to avoid any confusion.

Stating to look like an engine.

Now, I am ready to set the timing on the B head...

Oil and water pump

2009-07-25T19:40:00.008-04:00

A 30mm socket worded nicely to install the lip seal in the oil pump.

Lip seal in place.

The re-enforced oil pump shaft, bigger diameter and longer spindles.

Ready to place timing chain cover.

I have grinded a crow foot to torque the 2 top screws.

Just to make sure that the oil pump shaft is properly in place

Oil pan ready to be installed.

Time to take care of the water pump. I have used some sealer to hold it in place (Avoiding it to turn and leak later).

I've used a large socket with some 600 grid and a little polishing to smooth out the surface

On the picture below, you'll see 3 screws that are longer than the others (On the oil pan); I don't know why and I put them there, at the end of the oil pan. If someone knows why and where they should go, please let me know.

Timing chain cover

2009-07-23T07:04:00.007-04:00

Preparing the timing chain cover. I have replaced the O rings with two 2-121. This part connects to the 2 hoses going to the oil cooler.

For future reference, a 3.6 X 30.8 mm O ring should fit very nicely here.

New seal for the intermediate timing chain shaft.

I had to solder the temperature sender unit; it was loose and could be trouble down the road after the engine is in the car.

I made a connector for the engine oiler and a pressure tester using an old DS pressure sending unit.

The cover is ready to be installed.

Valve clearance

2009-07-22T07:23:00.003-04:00

The shims arrived; I could finish the valve clearance job. A cam shaft was binding a little; after a little treatment with a 1000 grid sand paper and some polishing, it is fine now.

Both heads are ready to be installed.

Now waiting for the oil pump shaft, which should arrive today...

Primary timing chain

2009-07-21T10:35:00.003-04:00

I drove to two different shops to get the oil cooler hoses rebuilt but no success; they don't have and cannot get the fittings.

Installed a new seal for the intermediate timing chain shaft.

Prepared the areas where the seal seats (1000 grid and polishing).

Shaft in place.

The main timing chain in place.

Checked and cleaned up the oil pump.

This o ring was flat. I've replaced it with a 2-121 (I use these in DS an SM hydraulic pumps).

Shims and crankshaft

2009-07-20T06:06:00.003-04:00

Almost done with the shims. I am just waiting fro 3 coming from Dave Burnham.

Here is the set up to grind the shim perpendicularly.

I made a little piece of metal to fit into the shim to make it easier to measure.

Ready to fit the main bearings. Some black sealer there and Clevite on the bearings.

The manual calls for grease to keep the thrust bearings in place; I used Clevite.

Just put a little sealer on the washers for the outside nuts, just to be sure...

Done.

Due to the engine stand, I have skipped this step. I will install this seal and the pilot ball bearing when I remove the engine from the stand.

The machine shop sent the crank to get balanced. The shop that did the work removed the timing gear and did not bother making a mark (I learned my lesson, next time I’ll make a mark myself). Anyway, we did not know where to press it back. We saw a mark but it was wrong. So I have put piston #1 at TDC and made a new mark. Unfortunately the O is between 2 teeth, but since I have to do the timing for each cam shaft in relation with the piston, things will work out at the end. I have engraved a new mark, which will also help the next mechanic who will work on this engine.

Shim calculation

2009-07-16T08:29:00.006-04:00

Worked yesterday on the valve clearance (... and polished the valve caps)

Working on the shims today...

There are so much calculation that I made a little spreadsheet to avoid errors and confusion.

Pistons, rings and crankshaft

2009-07-15T08:08:00.003-04:00

I had to go back to the shop to get the timing gear pressed on the crank; they forgot to do it before returning the parts to me. They used a 40 ton press.

Fitting the rings. I saved the number on the rods to match them back to the cylinders. Everything is new so it doesn't real matter, but it was useful to cut the rings matching each cylinder. I sort my gauges on the table; much quicker and easier to work this way.

The crank was very dirty inside. Here are the new plugs...

All pistons are in place now.

Pistons and lapping valves

2009-07-14T08:40:00.008-04:00

Finally the custom pistons are done and mounted on the rods (Waited 3 months for these pistons). They are 92mm instead of 91.6. There are 100 gr less that the original Maserati ones.

The cylinders were marked and not cylindrical any more. Instead of changing the sleeves the machine shop suggested to hone them and have custom pistons made. Good idea and less expensive (But a loooong process).

A new valve.

Lapping the valves using a fuel line (See video below).

Checking for leaks. After 16 hours, the level of kerosene went down very little. Considering some evaporation, I think that the valve job was satisfactory.

Newly cut and balanced crankshaft.

The data sheet from the machine shop.

Small video on the valve job trick...

(I show the use of a drill as an option but doing it by hand is the right way to do it)

New exhaust system

2009-04-16T08:36:00.002-04:00

I received the stainless steel exhaust, but I am still waiting for the pistons...

Intake valve

2009-04-02T08:49:00.005-04:00

I have received the new intake valve.

My special tool to remove the valve: Just a piece of heating pipe with some opening I made.

Valves in place.

Checking leakage with kerosene. After 2 hours, no leakage at all. Very small leakage overnight.

Exhaust valves

2009-03-30T21:10:00.002-04:00

Beautiful new stainless steel exhaust valves

Started to grind the valves

But, problem! This intake valve was slightly bent by the broken exhaust valve. I am waiting fro a new intake valve.

Head

2009-03-25T18:39:00.001-04:00

Brought the pistons to the machine shop and picked up the cleaned and resurfaced damaged head.

Flywheel and pressure plate

2009-03-24T18:32:00.001-04:00

Picked up the fly wheel...

Lateral play of crankshaft

2009-03-12T18:35:00.001-04:00

Measurement of the lateral play of the crankshaft (.006" to .008"). No thrust bearing needed.

US exhaust manifolds

2009-03-10T18:21:00.001-04:00

I removed the anti-pollution system which can rust and leak. also, the heat shield and asbestos had to go to avoid cracks on the manifold.

Broken exhaust valve

2009-02-23T18:04:00.001-05:00

The original problem... The car did not run for 20 years. I had it running but one morning a valve finally gave up. Thank goodness, the valve broke before the engine started. Small damaged, but after removing the piston, the bearing revealed a lot of damage. The engine has to come out.